restoration question

JaDub · April 19, 2011, 03:06:12 PM

Like David I`m learning refinishing techniques. I bought an old EasternArms single shot 20 gauge shotgun that was made by Stevens for SEARS & ROEBUCK somewhere between 1930 and 1940. The over-all condition is pretty good and since I can`t really de-value it I thought I`d buy it and try a restoration project. With the help of a career woodworking friend I`ve managed to refinish the stock back to a pretty acceptable state. It`s original birch furniture now has a nice new look. It appears that someone in the past re-blued the barrel to a very acceptable condition. My question at this point is how do I preserve the nice case hardened colors on the action/reciever? It appears that someone at one time covered/coated it with possibly a shellac finish which has since started comming off. I removed the remaining film but now I`m wondering what , if anything should I do to protect it`s natural finish/beauty?? I`m all ears !?!?

JaDub

sakorick · April 19, 2011, 05:47:27 PM

If it's been reblued and monkied with, it's beyond restoration and a candidate for doing nothing. Restoration entails taking an original gun and replacing incorrect parts to make it conform to original manufacture specs. It sounds like your project is a "leave it as is" proposition. Just my my $.02. Regards, Rick.

JaDub · April 20, 2011, 08:20:54 AM

My project, which is almost completed, entails refinishing the wood on an old a somewhat valueless gun that has all the original pieces and parts. The barrel is pretty much pristine. I`m `restoring` it as an exercise............nothing more. I hope I`m not hearing you say that anyone who refinishes or monkies with a gun is commiting a crime......... especially on a relatively worthless gun. 8-)
As to the original question........... Do I just oil the finish on the case hardened reciever ?

JaDub

recoil junky · April 20, 2011, 10:19:12 AM

Quote from: JaDub;112590Do I just oil the finish on the case hardened reciever ?

JaDub

Yes. That's about all you can do to keep the colors "intact". They are just on the very surface and can be polished off.

RJ

JaDub · April 20, 2011, 10:52:28 AM

Thanks RJ. I suspected as much but I thought I`d get a second opinion.......... I didn`t want to lose that nice patina. JaDub

davidlt89 · April 20, 2011, 04:25:26 PM

how about some Pictures buddy? God Bless.

JaDub · April 21, 2011, 08:37:31 AM

And just HOW did I know you`d ask that question ??? 8-))

I`ve just applied the last finish coat this morning so it should all come together tomorrow. It`s been fun and interesting as you know. I`m pretty much a woodchuck when it comes to anything with wood so it`s been a learning experience. This 20 ga is a very basic single shot , break action type. I would call it the perfect beginner`s gun due to it`s simplicity. I saw it at auction last week and couldn`t resist picking it up and experimenting with it. While it might not be `new in the box` in apperance, I think it will now be around and taken care of for quite some time........ as in a `new lease on life`.

Cheers, JaDub

P.S. David, I looked everywhere for your thread when you refinished your gun but couldn`t seem to come up with it. Where is it?

sakorick · April 21, 2011, 01:28:30 PM

Quote from: JaDub;112590I hope I`m not hearing you say that anyone who refinishes or monkies with a gun is commiting a crime......... especially on a relatively worthless gun. 8-)
As to the original question........... Do I just oil the finish on the case hardened reciever ?

JaDub

Hello JaDub. No, I didn't say that, you did. There is absolutely nothing wrong with sprucing up a rifle and value has little to do with it. You might just make it worth something. The word "restoration" is what fooled me. Usually the term restoration implies a different set of "rules"....I should have read your first post more carefully. Yes, I would just oil the case hardened receiver. Regards, Rick.

JaDub · April 21, 2011, 04:08:13 PM

Well, here it is. Hope you like it.

davidlt89 · April 21, 2011, 04:43:30 PM

gun looks very nice my friend!!! Now, how much fun was that:D Almost too bad the barrel did not need some blue:smiley:. I would say you have the hang of it! what did you use to refinish it?
I think this is the thread you are looking for.

http://www.thehunterslife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15232

God bless.

recoil junky · April 21, 2011, 05:12:00 PM

I like it that way. Looks more "refined" so to speak. Good job Jadub

recoil junky · April 21, 2011, 05:14:43 PM

Looks good Jadub. The new back ground really sets it off, but this way we don't know what you're working on!!

One thing I heard about case hardening and it's color is that too much direct sunlight can make it fade. I don't know how much "direct sunlight" that amounts to but just thought I'd throw that out there.
RJ

JaDub · April 21, 2011, 05:18:40 PM

Thanks David.

It` WAS fun. The toughest part was waiting for things to dry between coats. I used a product called Strip-ez to remove the old finish. I probably did that process three or four times before I was sure that everything that was going to come off did. I then sanded the stock with 120, then 220 and then 400. I had a few nicks that I wanted to remove so I spent a little more time on them. First I coated with minwax walnut stain. I did this several times to get the darker finish that I wanted. I then started the final covering process with 70/30 mix of Minwax Polyurethane- satin finish and laquer thinner. Did that twice while lightly sanding between coats ( 400 grit ). Next a 50/50 mix of the same ingrediants ( sanding bertween ) and finally two coats of 25/75 mix ( sanding between coats). Birch has a very unique grain so the final finish varies quite a bit depending on the wood. The Russians were big on using Birch on their SKSs. They have a very splotchy- grainy-wavy pattern too. All in all it was a fun project. I`ve already had an very nice offer ($$$) on the gun! 8-) But as I told him......... " I`m not thru looking at it yet".

And thanks, that was the tread I was looking for. You`ve inspired me David!

Cheers, JaDub

JaDub · April 21, 2011, 05:53:13 PM

Top secret stuff RJ !! I`d have ta kill ya if I showed it to you. 8-)

gitano · April 24, 2011, 08:33:38 AM

Good job, JaDub!. No better piece to 'cut your teeth' on, and it looks great.

I can second RJ's comments on the case coloring - oil only, and minimize direct sunlight. Over time, the colors will fade, no matter what one does. 100-year-old pieces still have case coloring, but it isn't as deep as original, and those have been 'closet queens' for the most part.

I have a couple of recommendations on refurbishing the wood on an older firearm. First, folks like to say that you can steam dents out. For ones in which no wood fibers have been broken, that's mostly true. The reason that it isn't completely true is that while you can get the wood "level" again, (the dent is technically "out"), there is no 'magic' for restoring the grain pattern exactly, and a close look will reveal where the dent was. That said, there is NO reason not to steam dents out. Just don't expect them to "disappear" as the "wood-writer" experts assert.

Secondly, for woods like birch and especially 'softwoods' like pine, if you want to stain them, you need to seal the grain before staining. There are a couple of ways to do that. Mix pumice or Plaster of Paris with an oil finish and rub it into the grain vigorously. Wipe it off completely before it dries. The pumice will fill the pores, and the stain will not be absorbed differentially by the summer/winter wood.

The method I use is a 1/2-pound cut of shellac. REAL shellac, not something CALLED "shellac". Check the can to make sure it's real shellac, or make your own from flakes. A half-pound cut is a very thin mixture. Apply it with a rag, and it will be soaked in and dry in SECONDS. One coat is usually all that is necessary to seal the grain. Because shellac is made by mixing shellac flakes in alcohol, it won't raise the grain. You can stain almost immediately - say 5 minutes - after sealing. Then final-coat with whatever you prefer. You MUST coat the shellac with something appropriate for being 'outside' though.

Personally, I love shellac as a FINAL finish for everything wood EXCEPT firearms. Because it is alcohol and natural based, (flakes from the exudations of an insect in India are dissolved in alcohol to make "shellac"), it is particularly susceptible to water stains. Not particularly good for something that is intended for use outdoors. It is great for sealing grain, and great for 'natural' finishes on "indoor" wood.

Stay after it. If one is going to learn a skill, one HAS to practice. Yours is an excellent choice for such practice. In my opinion, you have INCREASED the value of that piece for everyone except "collectors". My opinion of their 'standards' I'll keep to myself other that to say that absurd is the nicest thing I can say about them. Improving the looks and function of a man-made object is not "devaluing" it except in this most artificially absurd and bassackwards world we live in today.

Paul