Woodworking Workbench

Started by gitano, March 20, 2019, 02:58:46 PM

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gitano

For years, I've been threatening to make a 'proper' workbench. I have begun the task, and it was requested that I post some pictures about the process. I'm about half finished with it. I still have to install the vises (face http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45114&cat=1,41637,41659, and tail http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=66819&cat=1,41637,41659), and install the top onto the legs.

I decided to follow this fellow's plans: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Va8tlFpnhRg&t=376s. I have completed the top, the legs, and mortising the top to receive the leg tenons. Here are the requested pictures.

These are the individual pieces of poplar (4" wide by 1.5" thick) that I used to make up the top. This is the initial positioning before glueup to determine the best arrangement.


This is the glueup and clamping of a pair of the individual boards. I did not use his methods for glueup. Instead, I glued the boards up in pairs, then two pairs, then four pairs, etc., until I was gluing up two pieces made up of 9 boards each.

This is glueup of two 4-piece laminations.


After all of the boards making up the top are glued into one unit (4" x 26.5" x 72") it is necessary - no matter HOW careful you are - to flatten, (not "level"), the top and bottom surfaces. I used both a router for the "rough" stuff, and planes for the final smoothing. The router sat on a sled that in turn rested on the two rails you see outboard of the long sides of the top.


Next comes cutting mortises in the bottom of the benchtop to receive the tenons that get cut into the legs. Also, the stretchers that run from leg-to-leg need gluing up and tenons cut in their ends.




Test-fitting










While glue is called for in some mortise and tenon joinery, for 'big stuff' like this bench, trying to get all of the mortises and tenons together WITH GLUE, in a timely manner, (before the glue starts to set), argues for a different method - draw boring. Holes are drilled in the sides of the mortised piece WITHOUT the tenon inserted. Then, holes are drilled in the tenons - JUST SLIGHTLY out of concentricity with the holes in the corresponding mortise. Then, because of the excentricity, when dowels are driven into the holes the tenon is drawn TIGHTLY into the mortise. The joint is actually stronger than a glue-only joint in things as big as this bench.






Here are the legs completely assembled. I'm waiting on the vises to arrive in the mail so that I can inlet the face vise into the bottom and side of the benchtop BEFORE I set the top on the leg assembly.


I'll probably have some pictures of the process of installing (mortising) the face and tail vises. Once those are complete, I'll apply a finish (first shellac to seal the pores followed by a polyurethane/"oil" final coat), and call it good. I MAY sell it almost immediately and purchase the materials to make one 7 feet long. (This one is 6 feet long.) I will wait to see how a 6-ft bench works for what I do most.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

gitano

The Youtube video of the fellow building his bench is a MUCH better tutorial on "How it's done" than my pictures are.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

gitano

I forgot to mention that the legs were made from 'cut-offs' of glulams (http://www.anthonyforest.com/ewp/2400f.shtml) I used when building the house I live in.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased)

Turvey Stalking
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sakorick

So what's not to like with the 6 footer??
Talk to yourself. There are times you need expert advice.

gitano

Quote from: j0e_bl0ggs;152743'sell it'  careful son....

Look how well selling the AR went.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

gitano

Quote from: sakorick;152747So what's not to like with the 6 footer??

MIGHT be a bit short for some things. I'll have to use it for a bit and see if I really NEED something longer.

Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

Paul Hoskins

Looking real good but looks like work to me. I'm retired.   :grin:  ......Paul H

gitano

Very close to finished. I still have to put some 'planks' between the stretchers to make a platform, but I have drilled all of the dog holes I am going to put in for now, (top, face vise chop, and sliding deadman), installed the vises and the
"Mickelson panel". I've also put two coats of tung oil (that's all) on the top. I'll put finish on the lower parts when the top is completely dry. Here are the latest pictures.

After installing the face vise and preparing to install the Mickelson panel. (Notice no dog holes in the sliding deadman and no runner for it either.)


Here's the bench after the first coat of tung oil. Note all the dog holes. (Can't see the ones on the far side in the Mickelson panel.)


Here are pictures of the top after the second coat of tung oil. First from the face vise end.


And then from the tail vise end. You can see the Mickelson panel from this view.


All that's left to do is put in the bottom shelf 'planks' and oil the "lower". Oh yeah, I forgot about the "crochet" that goes on the Mickelson panel side. I've never used on of those, so I don't remember to include it, but the Mickelson panel isn't usable without it. Then I'll get rid of the dining room table I've been using for a bench, and move this bench to it's permanent place on the shop floor.

Oops - Forgot the picture of the inletted tail vice. Slick little vise, but over-priced for what it is.


 Paul
Be nicer than necessary.

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