MGF 75th Anniversary ....... the next project

Brithunter · February 18, 2015, 12:36:05 PM

This is how she looks right now:-

In the passenger seat is the engine access cover.

A bit of work especially on the interior to restore it. This one is one of the later ones in the series made nearer the end of production of the 75th.

The issues that I know about are:-

Radiator is pretty well knackered.
No coolant in expansion tank, yet none showing in the oil, but I am told it has over heated.
Bothe headlights dipped beams are misted up so need replacing.
Hydraulic fluid will need changing and flushing trough (Brakes and clutch).
Engine will need a service.
Alll rubber coolant pies will need inspecting and replacing as required.
Brakes need servicing and cleaning.
Alternator will need checking.
Replace rubber flexible brake hoses front and rear with braided Stainless.

One prepped submit to test Station/Garage for MOT test.

gitano · February 18, 2015, 03:11:09 PM

Uh oh... They put the steering wheel on the wrong side. Try to get the seller to give you a discount for that! :D

Have you "consummated" the deal?

Paul

Brithunter · February 18, 2015, 11:30:40 PM

I believe that we have a verbal agreement and have in fact offered a deposit. Due to it not being in running condition have to get a man with a trailer to collect her and am getting quotes for that at the moment. As always these come up at the "wrong" time as we have just forked out for a resupply of heating oil, a new carpet in Mothers bedroom to replace the very old worn out one which has become dangerous due to the backing failing and causing it to become rucked up and uneven. What with Mothers failing eyesight this is aserious trip hazard for her so we have no choice but to get a new one fitted.

Then the other week I agreed the purchase of a performance 4 branch exhaust manifold which I should be collecting next week so it will about three weeks before the finace is available to pay in full for the car and recovery.

Now if only those in the gun trade would pay up what they owe me things would be a bit easier so once more I'll have to try and chase them up over this debt which has been outsanding for over two years now. I sold the 280 AI and 280 Rem gauges to a dealer and smith whom has been using them to earn money but has repeatedly failed to pay me for them. This is one thing that contributed to my being banned from The SD as I tackled him over this non payment on the forums after failing repeatedly to get a response by phone. The monies owed would almost pay for the car.

As the car came up being offered out of the blue so to speak I was not prepared am usually a bit more organised. The problem is that some one else has now expressed interest in the car and asked to view it :cry: . I am hoping that as Phil whom is handling the sale for his brother has been impressed with my restoration of "Elsie" my BRG VVC that this will go in my favour but until monies exchange hands nothing is concrete.

j0e_bl0ggs (deceased) · February 18, 2015, 11:42:00 PM

Doncha mean SD?

Name n shame...

gitano · February 19, 2015, 07:50:00 AM

The cops that run The Stalking Directory are a 'testy' lot. No doubt the person that wasn't paying you for the use of your firearms was either a paying member of the SD or was one of their cop friends.

If I had given someone "earnest" money/deposit, I would expect them to not entertain any other buyers until I had failed to meet a payment deadline or decided not to buy. Otherwise, what's the point of earnest money?

Here's hoping you get this car, BH, BUT... It has been my experience with significant purchases that when I find myself 'forcing' things to make the purchase happen, it's a 'sign' that the deal is really not for me. If I have to start jumping through hoops, I start getting very 'twitchy' about a purchase in which the cost is significant.

Paul

Brithunter · February 20, 2015, 01:10:10 AM

Quote from: j0e_bl0ggs;137491Doncha mean SD?

Name n shame...

The smith was jaeger SA real name James but it seems that he also no longer on the SD either. Hmmmm as he never answer my calls wondr if it's worth trying once more??

For quite a while he was their "darling" on SD wonder what happened? did is alos stitch some one else up?

Brithunter · February 22, 2015, 02:07:48 AM

Well it's official that the 75th is mine. Just finance to deal with and arranging the transport now. This will take a couple of weeks at least sadly.

gitano · February 22, 2015, 10:16:38 AM

Congratulations!

You "will" be selling one of the others, or you "have" sold one of the others to finance this one?

Paul

Brithunter · February 23, 2015, 02:09:20 AM

Gitano,

I will be selling the Blue MGF. Have to get her prepared for sale to maximise the return. It seems that the RFD whom sold my Muscat Martini forgot to tell me it had sold and forgot to send me the money. That is in the post now and is almost enough to pay for the car. Just have to juggle the other commitments now like the recovery cost and the replacement speedo cable and the performance manifold I agreed to buy before this came up.

Due to the weather and the fact she stands out on the drive the soft top has some mould which needs to be killed and the top cleaned and treated to keep it good. I did it last year when I got her but it needs doing again. An annual thing is soft top cleaning. I got her a new MOT last month but did that early so she is tested until 23rd Feb 2015 but need the wheel alignment checking again so I can sell with a clear mind. The rest of the planned restoration and improvements will now be up to the next owner if they wish to continue of course if not it's still ready for use and she looks good now. I just wanted her better of course.

Brithunter · March 10, 2015, 11:04:09 AM

The 75th arrives on Friday.

Brithunter · March 19, 2015, 11:31:01 PM

Ahhh well it was evenually Monday late in the afternoon due to communications foul ups between the carrier and the garage

have now started the investigations as to what is needed and the list is far longer than anticipated

whilst she looks good on what you can see sadly there is evidence of lots of neglect and lack of maintenance.

In fact almost every suspension bush needs replacing and those Goodyear tyres that looked good are totally knackered:-

Caused by badly worn steering and suspension parts:-

That's the Passenger side track rod end attached the the steering rack and hub knuckle.

How the heck did the driver not notice the poor steering responce and handling issues????

The hubs top ball joints is squeezing all it's grease out and I have not tried for any play in the bottom ball joint but don't expect it to be much better. Due to the poor state of the front subframe have decided to pull it out and replace with the one that I refurbished last year. This of course means disconnecting all the cooling pipes but as we are fitting a new radiator and changing a lot of the cooling pipes this is no problem. It will just add to the amount of work and time taken to do it.

Although only surface rust at the moment it won't get any better if left and trying to clean and treat in position is a right nightmare and as we have one already to go in it's no brainer.

The bills are mounting up rather rapidily and my original guessimate of costing has about doubled as it looks like almost every coolant hose and pipe will need replacing and this alone will cost in the region of £300 the new Radiator was the cheap part at only £48. The new coolant rail for the engine:-

to replace this scabby one costs more than the radiator did on it's ownat aroun £60 then add the main outlet rubber hose from the engine and I know that costs over £40 on it's own having just had to replace the one on "Blue" in January. I do have these hoses off the Donor F but need to carefully inspect them before considering using them and many are a swine to access and change.

Now the story that I was told about this car is proven to be pretty much a lie

yes it had over heated and boiled up as coolant was clearley missing from the expansion tank. the pressure cap for this is well and truely knackered! However no mention of clutch problems and was told it was a non runner ........................... after connecting a charged battery I tried to spin her over and see if everything worked and she hardly spun over at all and fired right up. This is not a car that has not been run for over 18 months :frown . So there is a clutch release arm to free up and clutch slave cylinder to replace and rebuild and an engine to give a major service too on top of the suspected suspension rebuild.

This is not just a recommision, service, and coolant issue like was suggested.

Brithunter · March 23, 2015, 01:37:30 AM

Things on this MG just don't add up as there is evidence of some new parts and maintenance being done yet elsewhere chronic neglect

like the steel under floor coolant pipes look pretty new and are greased up against corrosion ................... old school thinking there. The head gasket looks to be fairly new as now the coolant hoses and pipes are stripped off the engine one can see the shiney gasket edge in the joint:-

This looks to be the "so called Uprated gasket" (MLS) however this version requires that the cylinder liners be at the correct specific height to seal and sadly many so called mechanics don't check this and just whack it in and bolt it down. So I don't know whether to trust this or not

.

But let's back up a bit ................. this is her running and remember we were told the head gasket was failed:-

No signs of that in her running in fact considering this engine was not supposed to have been run in over 18 months she runs sweet. Again I suspect we have not been told the truth as after 18months or so the fuel in the manifold would have evaportated and priming the system would have taken longer than it did. When a charged battery was connected and I tried to spin the engine over it turned over maybe twice before firing upv:eek: and then ran sweetly. At first she was a bit tappety as these have hydraulic tappets so the oil had drained down a bit but again it didn't take long for them to fill and not as long as ne would have expected.

One thing was noticed was that suddenly the coolant stopped flowing back into the expansion tank ....................... Hmmmm??? we now know why:-

That horrid rust/coppery coloured stuff is totally blocking the return gallery to the expansion tank and the manifolds "jiggle valve". Note the added Black Silicon sealent

we knew there were leaks and the Inlet manifold was one such suspect because of this:-

Coolant dripping of the rear of the sump which of course is below the inlet manifold. The manifold is a ploymer/plastic and if over heated they warp. This is needed replacing due to some ham fisted muppet:-

stripping the threaded insert to locate the oil filler neck. Have bought a later cast alloy inlet manifold and new gaskets to replace this plastic one. This is what was scraped out of that coolant gallery:-

Am going to have to flush the engine through and the heater pipes. This stuff may be oen ofthose leak fixes like K-Seal or Radweld ....................... either way none of those belong inside the Rover K series engine.

Most of the other coolant hoses are being replaced to they won't have this stuff in them. Am also converting this to run the PRT system this means removing the engine thermostat from it's position on the engine block. Just remove the thremostat from it's housing and reseal the housing a new thermostat is located in the main engine outlet hose and this system was used on the later version and the MG TF model which replaced the MGF. Have ordered a new PRT and hose assembly. This is supposed to reduce thermal shock on the engine caused by the long run of pipes under the car from the mid located engien to the front mounted radiator. Speak of radiators this is the one that was in the car:-

It's no wonder it had over heating problems especially when the front brake issues are added in:-

Not only do the caliper pistons look rank but the inner pads that the pistons bears on was not fitted properly and had jammed in the carrier. I needed to hit it hard with a 1lb hammer to get them out of either side. The pads had been rubbing so much they had seriously over heated and the friction material has delaminated and broken up. This of course made the engine work harder and with a leaking neglected cooling system we have over heat mode.

So new front brakes are required even though the disc rotors don't look very old or worn they are on the scrap pile not only due to the binding issue but whomever fitted them had never heard of copper slip (anti seize copper grease) and it required soem serious belting with a 1 1/2 lb ball pein hammer to get them off the hubs. the hubs are pretty scabby:-

so have ordered some Bilt Hamber deox-c rust remover cystals and a large lidded plastic bucket into which the complete hubs can be dropped into this solution to pickle and eat the rust ready for painting. New wheel/hub bearings will be fitted as I doubt the hammering did them any good. Once dried and painted the hubs will be rebuilt with new bearigns and ball joints ready for fitting. Although i ahve a pair of good hubs ready painted they are ABS hubs and these are non abs so makes sense to hold back the ABS ones for "Elsie" when we refurb her front end as she does have ABS fitted.

gitano · March 23, 2015, 08:15:41 AM

Interesting work, BH. While there is a great deal to do, it's nice that there are no 'fatal' problems. Great news on the quick and 'silent' running. All can be fixed/replaced. It should be quite the motorcar when you get finished with it!

Paul

Brithunter · March 23, 2015, 04:39:23 PM

Thanks Gitano,

Although even the Limited editions like this one don't seem to fetch much money I beleive it's worth saving you never know they could eventually take off like the MGB did but one never really knows what the future holds so I will just fix and improve a little for my driving pleasure hence I will uprate the brakes. Fronts first most likely with AP Lockheed 4 pot alloy racing calipers as fitted to the Trophy 160 and TF 135 which use 304mm discs instead of the standard 240mm disc with steel sliding caliper.

Have made enquiries as to the price of new AP's from the AP Lockheed distributer but not got a price back as yet. Might have to buy used and refurbish like the ones on "Elsie" whom has a set of MG badged AP's already fitted. They do really make a difference in braking control especially when coupled with S/S Braided brake hoses and a servo brace. The next level of brake upgrade after that is fitting larger 280mm disc rotors with caliper adaptors on the rear to balance the front-rear braking effort as unlike front engined cars the rear brakes actually do more work but uprating the rears first is a bad idea for safety as rear wheel skids are harder to control than front ones.

Depending on how the sell off goes we might even be able to get a flowed and ported head on this one to further improve her performance but that will have to wait until she is fixed and on the road once more. According to the forcast it's supposed to turn wet here, in fact it's trying to drizzle with rain now, so I will try to do some work on the interior like clean the leather seats and apply some feed to them if it is raining rather than laying on the mud and shingle trying to swap the sub frame over. Maybe fit the spare Blue outer door handle to the driver door that is until we can get one sprayed in the right colour.

In the morning have to take the hound to the vets as he has a wound on his head that is discharging muck. Don't know what he did but it's not nice.

Brithunter · April 03, 2015, 11:12:45 AM

It's been a while and things have been moving on with the work required at least at the front. The refurbished sub frame is in and both hubs have had new bearings pressed into place and the hubs finally assembled and the drivers side is even fitted.

The hubs were derusted in Bilt Hamber Deox-c then scrubbed pickled again and scrubbed then washed off, dried, primed and painted before being lacquered. New ball joint in the top to match the new ones on the lower wishbone and the steering (track) control arm. The hub bearings (Wheel bearing) were well rusted:-

No wonder they felt rough! Have been doing lots of derusting and painting like this Engine Coolant rail:-

that used to look like this:-

I believe the blistering is from the over heating and boiling up as the flywheel closure plate has also had the paint boiled off it:-

I had already cleaned and repainted a spare one ...................... yellow of course :grin:. Have also painted the top half, plenium, or the inlet manifold and the throttle Body.

It's only mocked up right now no gaskets used as am figuring out the wiring cnnections for the fuel rail and injectors as this alloy manifold is off a later model which has different engine loom and a different ECU and Map. It looks like I will have to swap the old fuel rail and wiring over onto the alloy manifold as even the multi plugs are different. All adds to the fun I suppose .............................. or that is what they tell me.

Brakes have been ordered but am very disppointed with the AP distributor as am still waiting to hear back from them. However have bought a new pair of AP Racing Alloy 2 piston (Pot) calipers with MG cast into their face, not from AP I might add, but an MG specialist. These it seems were intended to be used on some late production TF's but some how that never happened. They use the same 304mm Disc (rotor) that the 4 pots do so this will be interesting to see how they compare in braking performance. I did enquire about reconditioning for teh standard original calipers but the prices came out fairly similiar so plumped for the larger and we hope better brakes.

gitano · April 03, 2015, 04:48:59 PM

Still watching with interest.

Paul

sakorick · April 04, 2015, 03:32:15 AM

Quote from: Brithunter;137609Gitano,

I will be selling the Blue MGF. Have to get her prepared for sale to maximise the return. It seems that the RFD whom sold my Muscat Martini forgot to tell me it had sold and forgot to send me the money.

How convenient. Nobody forgets to send money except me.:o

Brithunter · April 04, 2015, 08:23:58 PM

Ahhh well Easter is upon us and so everything slows to a halt. My parts are held up due to the "Holidays" main things held up are the new front brakes.

Anyway we have been trying to puzzle out just how to fit this later alloy manifold to her. So removed the injectors and fuel rail with injector loom from the damaged plastic manifold and swapped them onto the alloy lower manifold but retained the fuel return pipe as for some reason the spacing of the mounting tabs are different between the plastic and alloy ones :huh: nope makes no sense to me either!

Reason for the swapping over is that the car runs a different ECU system to the later model that the alloy manifold came off and the wiring is non compatible:-

Have also discovered that the early Mems 1.9 system this 75th model runs uses a Green Inlet temperature sensor and the TF that the alloy one came from does not. It uses a Manifold Pressure sensor. So will have to have the pressure sensor fitted to block the hole it mounts into in the Plenum unless we can fabricate a blanking plate ....................... hmmm must give that some thought!

Now the lower half of the alloy manifold has a boss cast on it in the correct spot to mount the Inlet temp sensor so it can be drilled and tapped without much ado but ......................................... there is always a BUT! It seems that it will need to be drilled and tapped much larger than the sensor needs and an insulation bush made to avoid heat soak from the alloy to stop erronous data being given to the engine management system.

So whilst pondering this and waiting for some replies to questions raised on the MGF forums the starter motor was removed, sounds simple enough but boy it really did not want to come out of it's little niche

, but with the aid of a tyre lever it's out. It needed to come out so the Flywheel locking tool could be put into place to lock the engine for the crankshaft bolt to be undone so the pully could be removed and the lower cam belt cover could be finally taken off to inspect the water pump...

Hmmm am not so pleased with the look of that rust and am wondering if this is leakage or from being sat for the best part of two years outside and not being used???

Am thinking for peace of mind and safety of the engine perhaps I should replace it along with the cam belt and tensioner as after all we are almost half way there to doing the job with the engine stripped like it is. This raises another little problem ................................... it seems king kong did up the the two bolts on the engine mount which must be split to remove the cam belt

.

So whilst we also ponder how to get around that little hiccup it's onto the stripping and checking the rear brakes and suspension. As there is a rear subframe standing on the side of the drive out of the donor VVC I have removed the two radius arms and am de-rusting them ready for painting and refurbishing with new bushes.

Like these that I did last year for "Elsies" rear suspension. Have not ordered the bushes yet as will do that once we know exactly which and how many we need to replace. Plus have yet to see if I can actually get the eye bolts for the tie bars undone as they are a real swine to get at without dropping the rear subframe from the bodyshell.

We know that the hand brake works as such so will remove the calipers clean, inspect, and if found servicable then paint them before refitting with new S/S PVC coveed braided brake hoses which I already have.

Brithunter · May 06, 2015, 12:35:02 PM

About time for an update:-

This weekend has been sorting coolant hoses and pipes. Have fitted a new thermostat, for now will use the std one but later am going to convert to PRT, refitted the engine coolant rail. Fitted a replacement engine outlet hose and return hose although neither are connected to the under floor coolant rails.

The alloy lower manifold has been drilled and tapped to accept the "Green" Inlet Temp sensor and the coils has been refitted:-

The rear calipers have been cleaned and painted ready for refitting:-

Halfords Red to compliment the new AP Racing 2 posts on the front:-

New 5mm thick alloy spacers of the correct PCD.

The calipers came from MG Mania along with some upgraded mounting bolts. The discs are APEC which have been painted to keep them looking nice and the rust at bay. The rear caliper carriers have also been cleaned and painted:-

We will be getting new mounting bolts, sliders, and bleed nipples as well as new banjo bolts for them.

She also has a new water pump, cam belt and tensioner fitted and now has her belt covers refitted and aslo her alternator belt which has been tensioned:-

So we are coming along if slowly.

Have to undo the radius are sub frame bolts and check the inner sub frame ends of the Track Control Arms then we can order the bushes and get new bolts and compliance washers. Am going to order from Durflex ......................... yes I know not as hard as Polybush but I don't want a harsh ride just a true one.

Still to get are:-

Radiator fan
Rear shocks
Rear discs and pads (the O/S/R is badly pitted and slightly warped)
Fuel Filter
Hydolastic fluid

Hope to have her running again in a few days and brakes all working by next Friday and hopefully with working suspension by Tuesday 21st.

Brithunter · May 06, 2015, 12:40:25 PM

First thing was to route the S/S braided front brake hoses so they are safe and secure:-

I believe this is the neatest solution that I have found to date so will copy it and do the same to "Elsie" . Then it was onto wire brushing the loose paint and rust on the rear subframe then treat so it can be painted tomorrow weather permitting.

Tomorrow actually came!

Well in a lull in the wind and rain when the sun was actually showing it's face it was coat on and out to undercoat the treated hubs and sub frame. As the aim was to get it done as quickly as possible no photos were taken. Retreating indoors for a cuppa to allow the undercoat to dry then after a while in another break it was out to spray some top coat on. Yellow for the hubs ................................ of course. I was even thinking of buying another tin of Hammerite Smooth in Yellow but that can wait until much later ........................... time is the enemy right now.

So an aerosol can was used. The subframe needs to be ALL yellow if that is the colour and as we don't have the time, access, or the paint right now the subframe was done in Satin Black:-

The rust was only surface but stopping it going further is always a good move :) . The hubs especially will need another coat before an application of lacquer and the sub frame will get another coat. I did breifly consider underseal.

My intention is to get the rear sub frame from the Donor VVC stripped then blasted so it can be properly painted then rebuilt and then swapped into one of the F's and then that sub frame can be treated the same. Likewise the front sub frame from the 75 will be stripped and painted then rebuilt and swapped into "Elsie"....................................... all part of the ongoing restoration.

Well the bushes eventually arrived, was promised them for last Saturday so they turn up the Wednesday after :tapfoot: , and am sorry to say that I am not impressed. Firstly my order was for Yellow bushes with Stainless ferrules, tubes, spacers, it seems these were the problem. Don't know why people seem afraid of machining stainless but they are :-? looking at the tube ends it appears that the tooling was blunt the finish is like a ploughed field and rough as a badgers backside. The finish in the bores is also not good and in the days of carbide U drills it seems these were done with a good old twist drill which wandered. I had to skim the ends on one tie rod eye bush to get it into the bracket on the subframe so chucked in the the small lathe and the hole is not concentric with the tubes outside ................................. Hmmmmm

A tie rod eye bush ................................................. remember these are YELLOW!!!!! the chap at Durflex assures me that these are Yellow despite their own web site showing they are Orange as the Yellow IS yellow on their web page.

Not the poor finish to the tubes end

..................................................... Now these are the complaince bushes:-

Hmmm they don't look like any other complaince bush that I have seen on an F ???????????????? For compaision these are Polybush ones:-

that I fitted to "Elsie" for her MOT last September.

The tubes are one piece that passes through both bushes unlike the Duraflex which have short tubes through each bush. I am wondering if they have trrouble drilling through a length of Stainless the required length????? :-? if so this calls the skill of their machinist and their choice of tooling into question. Simple tube spacers like this would be 2nd year apperentice work and can be achieved on a centre lathe. Using a capstan would make the job even easier and with modern CNC machines a doddle and yes I have many years experience running and setting such machines. Now these are the Duraflex bushes fitted:-

I was worried that the tie bar nut would not have enough thread to grip on but it seems one has to wind the nut on and squish the Duraflexs Complaince Bushes :slapme: :omg: I am also wondering about the lower arm to hub bush as on the standard one the steelof the arm is against the hub but the Duraflex bush is squashed between arm and hub ????? now I simply so not have enough knowledge about polymers and polyurathene to make an informed judgement here so it's a "suck it and see" scenerio :-? .

A tie rod with standard MG-Rover bush:-

That one was painted over a year ago and has lain out on the old steel saw bench since then.

The standard bush is a right Mare to remove and I found the only way with no proper press as to tear the rubber out by shearing it under pressure in the 6" bench vice, used a large deep socket and a smaller one to shear the rubber bush through, then cutting the steel ring with a hack saw before punching the split ring out with a cold chisel the Duraflex bush being in two halves was easy to fit the tube is one piece but of course is fairly short:-

Once the old bush was out the tie rod was cleaned off and primed:-

then painted Yellow to match the rest.

Of all the Duraflex bushes that I have these are the ones I would buy again as they do stiffen up the the tie rod and stop it twisting which I am hoping is a good thing! I also don't know of others offering a replacement bush for this!!!!

The lower radius arm inner bush is again very thick and it proved very difficult to get the shims in place:-

The O/S went in a bit easier and further. Anyway apart from rear shocks the rear suspension is back together. The dampers on her were no good due to poor condition so have to get replacements as NONE of the ones here are in good enough condition to use :bang: and the money has run out. The new TRW rear discs did arrive though:-

so got cleaned and titivated ................................. they are only fitted for the photo as the edge/rim is not painted and have not bought the new bolts for the caliper carrier mounting to the hub as yet along with the new bleed nipples.

Another job completed on her was the swapping of the ingition switch so she now has the full lock set from the Donor VVC fitted so she has two keys just have to sort out a second key fob as we still only have the one of those. The Donors boot lock has this cover:-

so that was swapped over too !

Brithunter · May 06, 2015, 12:47:59 PM

Last Friday was spent wrestling with the interior to get at the gear change mechanism. Whilst removing the centre tunnel it was found to have a broken top passenger side tab. This explains why it did not sit level with the dash ..................................... so the one that came out of "Blue" was cleaned and fitted it being the same colour. We soon discovered why the change was so sloppy the spigots on the bronze bushes had been broken off so were no longer locating the parts on the holes.

So the one from "Elsie" was dragged from it's hiding place and one good working unit built from the two. Sounds easy but it was a nightmare job due to some idiots use of thread locker :rant: so whilst it was apart the 97 vintage gear stick which has a bronze bush rather than plastic was shortened. Then drilled 3/4" deep and the hole tapped 6mm. A S/S 10mm cap headed bolt was turned down and threaded 6mm to a shoulder and this was then fitted to the stick to accept the gear knob.

This has tightened up the shift no end but the cables need adjusting as selecting reverse is difficult. Adjusting the cables seems to have helped next we need to check the oil leve in the box as the seal around the change shaft is leaking.

This is how she sits now the suspension was pumped with one of those converted oil guns off ebay.

Well the 75th now has an Air Filter even if it was not the intended one. I had acquired a TF 160 filter set up including bracket however we soon discovered that with the resonator still in place even with the intake elbow removed the TF bracket won't fit. So the TF160 assembly has found it's way into "Elsie" the 97 VVC and her K7N 57i is now on the 75th. Also adjusted the cables gearbox end and fitted one new gaiter.

Have refitted the cam belt cover and today at last the new TRW rear brake pads arrived and are not fitted just need to re-bleed the brakes now and fit the belly pan. She is supposed to be moving to the garage for the sill repair tomorrow "Wednesday" but am not sure she will be ready due to other chores and the weather not playing ball.

Well it's Wednesday evening and the brakes are now re-bled ................... just got that done and the heavens opened. The rain just fell in buckets. It eventually stopped butti was now time to cook our dinner so I didn't get back out and under the car until quite late but managed to refit the belly pan and only round of the 22 bolt holses needed tapping out. Refitted her wheels and lowered her down off the jacks and stands. Fitted the engine cover, it has to come back off again before her MOT test as I need to refit an air filter bracket that holds the fuel filter secure. The bracket is being painted after being cleaned and rust treated. Once she comes back for havign her sill repaired I cna refit the door card fit the filter bracket and then get her booked in for a 4 wheel alignment then out fo the tyre depot around the cornerto teh test station. Need to get those booked though to cover legal bases.

gitano · May 06, 2015, 09:16:37 PM

Looking very good, BH!

Paul

Brithunter · May 11, 2015, 01:36:24 AM

Next was refit the repainted air filter bracket to support the fuel filter:-

It's not needed for the filter as she has "Elsie's" K7N 57i fitted........ yes that is a nice shiney new fuel filter too.

Then it was start removing the obvious signs of years of neglect ................ the under bonnet and under the scuttle was filthy and every nook and cranny filled with debris and muck. I had hosed it out once but this old stuff was firmly stuck in place. No other way but to get in with cloths and brushes and get as much as we can out.

Filthy as you can see.............................. and this is AFTER a pressure hose down the other week. There is a lot to do the get it decent again but we made a start:-

Yes for some reason the rivet for the VIN plate has been sheared off. This will be drilled out and replaced to secure the plate once again.

I know many never see this but once clean it really does not take much to keep it decent and it allows one to spot any rust starting. The engine bay top was also given a wipe down before the engine access cover was replaced:-

It was while doing this that I noticed that someone in the past has cut off the little hooks from the soft top frame ???????????? WHY?

Whilst checking lights etc for the MOT discovered this:-

Cracked rear bumper ........................................ more expense :roll: which proably was done when this happened:-

and no I don't know how or whom did it but it was like this when I veiwed it.

Anyway yesterday the cleaning up of the under bonnet continued:-

The battery earth cable was caked in black grease so was removed and cleaned and a new bolt found and used after a application of vaseline to protect it and provide a good contact:-

Also pulled the radiator fan relay and cleaned the contacts and smeared them with vaseline to stop corrosion. Still to do is clean the black plastics and protect them and it seems lower the N/S as it's raised a bit more and is not at over 360mm in height. Am aiming for 355-358mm in heights to allow for the warmer weather for it to rise some. Will see if it settles some more when she is moved to the garage for the sill repair on Thursday. The chap will also cut off the seized solid battery clamp bolt the battery has not been fixed in place for ages as it's sliding about has removed quite a bit of the battery trays paint I discovered. Once the bolt is cut off I can drill the remained out and paint the tray with stone chip for protection. Meanwhile have cleaned and painted the battery clamp off the donor ready to be used.

Brithunter · May 23, 2015, 01:30:05 AM

Well this has taken me by surprise but the repair is done. It required the whole rear part of the sill to be cut out and replaced :o it required 27" of repair any way it's looking sound not just need stone chipe then paint to cover it and make it unnoticable. It would also seem that she has been in an accident in the past as it looks like the O/S/R quarter has been repaired or replaced. Now we know that the O/S/F wing is a replacement as it's green inside so the history of her seems to be getting interesting in a not so good way.

Having her ready to pick up now has sort of throw things into confusion as I had arranged for collection Monday or Tuesday.............................. so now it's arrange the wheel alignment then MOT right after.

It seems the DVLA MOT history is rather sparce however it would appear that the front Monroe shocks were fitting in June 2010 at 60,042 miles. The hardly worn brakes that I had to replace due to being very badly fitted were done for the MOT in March 2013 and the rusting on the front sub frame was mentioned as an advisory but what is most interesting is that she may have been clocked :o as the test in 2013 is nearly 500 miles less than the one in 2014 so something is amiss. Either we have a error, the speedo unit has been changed, or something funny is going on. It would also appear that it was between 1st March and 20th April 2013 that the drivers wing was replaced as she failed the test again on that headlight aim being too low so it would appear that the bump happened in that period which required the head light and wing to be replaced. And this was all less that 2000 miles ago................................... if the odeometer is correct that is.

She is booked in for her wheel alignment adjustment then the MOT is a place in Boston for Friday morning at 10 am. So better pop out with a can an get some tetrol for her as there is very little in her. This is the sill repair:-

Am not too keen on the line of the weld but will ask Stuart if he can do something about masking it. Perhaps when the lower part is painted black with stone chip it won't be as noticable?

But somehow think it will need Stuarts delicate touch to make it really decent the rust in the intake needs sorting which means ideally the rear quarter need a repaint but that will have to wait a while as yet.

Brithunter · May 23, 2015, 01:30:47 AM

Actually started yesterday but finished today first washed the 75th then clayed it and boy was the paint rough and dirty then used some paint renovator and finally waxed her:-

That was yesterday evening:-

late this afternoon.

Then this morning in the post a further upgrade bit of "Bling" if you like arrived in the form of a leather covered arm rest/cubby lid:-

OK it's Grey but it will be dyed just not sure as to if it should be Black of Grenadine red??? The reason for the leather covered one is that the original plastic one just feels cheap and flimsy unlike the more robust leatehr covered item. This one came off ebay for £10.99 delivered. It was rather dirty but a few minutes washing and scrubbing and it's come up rather well.

Then fixed and fitted the front air dam:-

To the front sub frame. After which it was check all her lights then wipers and washers .................... Hmmm drivers side washer worked the other day but not now so swapped the jet for one off the spare bonnet. Then had to muck about getting the jets hitting correctly so hopefully we are OK for the MOT in the morning.

Brithunter · May 23, 2015, 01:32:50 AM

Well she passed the MOT with NO advisorys 8-) Whoopee

.

Have parked her up at home until the beginning of June when we will tax her.

After getting her taxed we have to get the alignment done properly as their gauges on the floor, no they didn't tell me that's what they use , have left it quite a way out. Got her checked on a Hunter machine so will getting it reset once she is legally on the road with RFL. will see if we can get some better tyres at least for the front before then.

gitano · May 23, 2015, 08:20:33 AM

Very nice looking job, BH!

You should be proud to drive that car around.

Paul

Brithunter · May 23, 2015, 02:55:04 PM

Thank You Gitano .............................. I am. In fact I am proud to drive them all .............................. all three of them. The MGF's that is as after all I have done a fair bit of work on all three and saved them all from probably beign scraped for parts!!!!! but it's ture that this 75th Anniversary Edition certainly needed to most work and she is not finished really ........................ not yet.

To get her really right will take a lot of money yet:-

New tyres
Exhaust................ possibly a new CAT................ if so just these will swallow another £300- £1000 depending on tyre choice and exhaust choice.
Body work ................... remove rust blisters, treat, and respray. If we also go for dent removal anda quality respray then that's into the thousands

.

The drivers side has been sprayed before and not particularly well

it would appear she has been in a scrape at some point. However let's get the tyres and exhaust sorted then worry about improving her looks

branxhunter · May 25, 2015, 01:06:54 PM

Looks fantastic BH!

Marcus

Brithunter · May 27, 2015, 11:15:24 PM

Thank you

.

Now due to a mishap in my Green one "Elsie" she will be off the road for some weeks now whilst I fix her up. We spun on something and she slammed into the N/S curb smashing a chunk out of an alloy rim and it seems also wrecking the inner CV joint. Not sure if the drive shaft is bent or not as yet but to access the inner joint more easily the exhaust will be removed.

This was all new last September and I used stainless fastenings so it will come off nice and easy. As "Elsie" will not be needing it up on stands I will fit this exhaust to the 75th and see about a more sporty one for "Elsie" later.

June 20th & 21st is the MG-Live event at Silverstone racing circuit and this year is the 20th anniversary of the launch of the MGF model and I am now attending then event for teh weekend. Will be camping which I have not done for decades. On the Sunday there will be a Circuit Parade/Tour of the different varients of the MGF offered over the years and the 75th is now entered into that parade so we have to attend now :D so she needs a decent looking exhaust and not one with a tail pipe broken off.

So have started undoing the 16 year old nuts and bolts. Got the 4 manifold/down pipe joint ones undone but it looks like will have to cut/grind the others off....................... or cut through the pipe itself. Which due to the location of the upper nuts is the most likely option.

Brithunter · May 19, 2016, 05:30:46 AM

Well the 75th has been on the road for a year now her annual MOT test would have run out on the 21st May but we got a new one yesterday so we have another year on the road. I had to rob a CAT off the Blue MGF as she failed the emissions test and Blue had a fairly new factory MG-Rover CAT fitted that I bought and they are excellent so it is now fitted to the 75th and Blue will get a new aftermarket one for her test in a week or so.

We have done around 7500 miles in the year and one thing the tester noted and pointed out is that the clutch slave cylinder is weeping so need to get a replacement and fit that SOON.