Reloading Safety Part 2, Primers

[recoil junky]

Reloading Safety

Part 2. Primers and Primer Storage

Primers:

There are two sizes of primers normally used in metalic cartridge reloading, large and small. Of the two sizes there are there are two types of primers, rifle and pistol.

Rifle primers have a thicker cup to withstand the pressures associated with rifle catridges whereas pistol primers have a thinner cup which allows them to be more easily detonated due to the weaker hammer/firing pin  springs required in most pistols and revolvers.

Of the two type of primers ther are two styles, boxer and berdan. Boxer style primers have the anvil incorperated in the cup. Berdan primers have no anvil as the anvil is part of the cartridge case. Berdan primes are used in "diposable ammunition" (CCI's Blazer) or foriegn military ammunition or foriegn manufactured ammunition (Wolf) Berdan primers can be removed, but it takes special tools to do so. Some berdan primes are made with a corrosive priming compound and should not be used in reloading. All modern boxer style primers are made with a noncorrosive mixture.

Boxer style primers are most commonly used by most American and foriegn ammunition manufaturers and are easily removed. They are the style preffered by reloaders.

Of the two types of primers there are two power levels, magnum and standard. Magnum primers aren't made of heavier material, they have more of the same priming mixture or have a different priming mixture altogether. Magnum primers are used to ignite the large powder charges in magnum pistol cartridges or magnum or overbore rifle cartridges.

Primer Storage:

Due to their explosive nature only an absolute minimum should be kept in storage. The National Fire Protection Association' NFPA 495 says that not more than 10,000 primers should be stored in a private residence. This recommendation is law in most communities. Even a deeply involved reloader should have no reason to store more than 1,000 of each of large rifle, large rifle magnum, small rifle, large pistol, large pistol magnum, small pistol, small pistol magnum, and shotshell primers. That's only 8,000 primers. With care in replacing exhausted supplies, it is not difficult to adhere to the 10,000 primer limit. Most reloaders should be able to get along with far fewer primers kept on hand.

Always store primers in a remote area away from any possible source of ignition including bullet impact. Be sure that no heat, spark, electrical static, percussion, or any other form of abuse can occur in the storage area.

Keep primers stored away from oxidizing agents, flammable liquids, and flammable solids (including handloading powders).

A lockable primer storage cabinet is strongly recommended. Cabinets should be constructed of 1" thick lumber to delay the transfer of heat to the contents in the event of a fire or other mishap. A cabinet constructed of one half inch plywood  lined with one half inch sheetrock will work as well. Make sure the storage cabinet is remotely located with respect to trash, combustible materials, sources of heat (including sunlight), open flames, electrical equipment, hot water heaters. mechanical equipment, furnaces. solvents, flammable gasses, and so on. To avoid the potential of an unexpected or unusual accident, do not store anything else in the primer cabinet.

Benchtop Guidelines:

Always wear safety glasses while seating primers.

Only remove enough primers for the carton for the reloading session.

Always return unused primers to their original primer trays and return them to the primer storage cabinet.

Manufacturers of priming equipment, such as Lee's AutoPrime and RCBS's Universal Hand Priming Tool, may recommend a specific brand of primers in their products. Be sure to use the recommended primers to prevent accidental primer detonation.

Never substitue primers, ie: pistol for rifle primers (or visa-versa) or magnum for standard primers. Pistol primers cannot withstand the pressures of rifle loads. Magnum primers used in loads calling for standard primers can create higher pressures than the load was originally designed for and can damage your firearm or cause personal injury.

Naturally, never smoke around primers or during the priming process.



There are more benchtop guidelines I'm sure, so feel free to add them and I will put them in the post above.

RJ

[recoil junky]

I've changed a few things and added a couple others here and there. Give it a re-read and see what y'all think.

RJ

[recoil junky]

Here it is again with a few more revisions


Reloading Safety

Part 2. Primers and Primer Storage

Primers:

There are two sizes of primers normally used in metalic cartridge reloading, large and small. Of the two sizes there are two types of primers, rifle and pistol.

Rifle primers have a thicker cup to withstand the pressures associated with rifle catridges whereas pistol primers have a thinner cup which allows them to be more easily detonated due to the weaker hammer/firing pin springs required in most pistols and revolvers.

Of the two type of primers ther are two styles, boxer and berdan. Boxer style primers have the anvil incorperated in the cup. Berdan primers have no anvil as the anvil is part of the cartridge case. Berdan primes are used in "diposable ammunition" (CCI's Blazer) or foriegn military ammunition or foriegn manufactured ammunition (Wolf) Berdan primers can be removed, but it takes special tools to do so. Some berdan primes are made with a corrosive priming compound and should not be used in reloading. All modern boxer style primers are made with a noncorrosive mixture.

Boxer style primers are most commonly used by most American and foriegn ammunition manufaturers and are easily removed. They are the style preffered by reloaders.

Of the two types of primers there are two power levels, magnum and standard. Magnum primers aren't made of heavier material, they have more of the same priming mixture or have a different priming mixture altogether. Magnum primers are used to ignite the large powder charges in magnum pistol cartridges or magnum or overbore rifle cartridges.

Primer Storage:

The National Fire Protection Association's NFPA 495 says that not more than 10,000 primers should be stored in a private residence. This recommendation is law in some communities. If you are in doubt, check your local ordinances.

Always store primers in a remote area away from any possible source of ignition including bullet impact. Be sure that no heat, spark, electrical static, percussion, or any other form of abuse can occur in the storage area.

Keep primers stored away from oxidizing agents, flammable liquids, and flammable solids (including handloading powders).

A lockable primer storage cabinet is a good idea. Cabinets should be constructed of 1" thick lumber to delay the transfer of heat to the contents in the event of a fire or other mishap. A cabinet constructed of one half inch plywood lined with one half inch sheetrock will work as well. Make sure the storage cabinet is remotely located with respect to trash, combustible materials, sources of heat (including sunlight), open flames, electrical equipment, hot water heaters. mechanical equipment, furnaces. solvents, flammable gasses, and so on. To avoid the potential of an unexpected or unusual accident, do not store anything else in the primer cabinet.

NEVER STORE POWDER AND PRIMERS IN THE SAME CABINET

Benchtop Guidelines:

Always wear safety glasses while seating primers. (Your prescription glasses are usually ANSI safety rated)

Only remove enough primers for the carton for the reloading session.

Always return unused primers to their original primer trays and return them to the primer storage cabinet.

Manufacturers of priming equipment, such as Lee's AutoPrime and RCBS's Universal Hand Priming Tool, may recommend a specific brand of primers in their products. Be sure to use the recommended primers to prevent accidental primer detonation.

Never substitue primers, ie: pistol for rifle primers (or visa-versa) or magnum for standard primers. Pistol primers cannot withstand the pressures of rifle loads. Magnum primers used in loads calling for standard primers can create higher pressures than the load was originally designed for.

Naturally, never smoke around primers or during the priming process.

[davidlt89]

looks informative to me RJ! nice format also. God Bless.

[recoil junky]

I've done more editing. Give it a reread.

RJ

[recoil junky]

Sorry I've been away form these projects, but here's "Primers" again with some more additions, deletions and editing.


Reloading Safety

Part 2. Primers and Primer Storage

Primers:

There are two sizes of primers normally used in metalic cartridge reloading, large and small. Of the two sizes there are two types of primers, rifle and pistol.

Rifle primers have a thicker cup to withstand the pressures associated with rifle catridges whereas pistol primers have a thinner cup which allows them to be more easily detonated due to the weaker hammer/firing pin springs required in most pistols and revolvers.

Of the two type of primers ther are two styles, boxer and berdan. Boxer style primers have the anvil incorperated in the cup. Berdan primers have no anvil as the anvil is part of the cartridge case. Berdan primes are used in "diposable ammunition" (CCI's Blazer) or foriegn military ammunition or foriegn manufactured ammunition (Wolf) Berdan primers can be removed, but it takes special tools to do so. Some berdan primes are made with a corrosive priming compound and should not be used in reloading. All modern boxer style primers are made with a noncorrosive mixture.

Boxer style primers are most commonly used by most American and foriegn ammunition manufaturers and are easily removed. They are the style preffered by reloaders.

Of the two types of primers there are two power levels, magnum and standard. Magnum primers aren't made of heavier material, they have more of the same priming mixture or have a different priming mixture altogether. Magnum primers are used to ignite the large powder charges in magnum pistol cartridges or magnum or overbore rifle cartridges.

Primer Storage:

The National Fire Protection Association's NFPA 495 says that not more than 10,000 primers should be stored in a private residence. This recommendation is law in some communities. If you are in doubt, check your local ordinances.

Always store primers in a remote area away from any possible source of ignition including bullet impact. Be sure that no heat, spark, electrical static, percussion, or any other form of abuse can occur in the storage area.

Keep primers stored away from oxidizing agents, flammable liquids, and flammable solids (including handloading powders).

A lockable primer storage cabinet is a good idea. Cabinets should be constructed of 1" thick lumber to delay the transfer of heat to the contents in the event of a fire or other mishap. A cabinet constructed of one half inch plywood lined with one half inch sheetrock will work as well. Make sure the storage cabinet is remotely located with respect to trash, combustible materials, sources of heat (including sunlight), open flames, electrical equipment, hot water heaters. mechanical equipment, furnaces. solvents, flammable gasses, and so on. To avoid the potential of an unexpected or unusual accident, do not store anything else in the primer cabinet.

NEVER STORE POWDER AND PRIMERS IN THE SAME CABINET

Benchtop Guidelines:

Always wear safety glasses while seating primers. (Your prescription glasses are usually ANSI safety rated)

Only remove enough primers for the carton for the reloading session.

Always return unused primers to their original primer trays and return them to the primer storage cabinet.

Manufacturers of priming equipment, such as Lee's AutoPrime and RCBS's Universal Hand Priming Tool, may recommend a specific brand of primers in their products. Be sure to use the recommended primers to prevent accidental primer detonation.

Never substitue primers, ie: pistol for rifle primers (or visa-versa) or magnum for standard primers. Pistol primers cannot withstand the pressures of rifle loads. Magnum primers used in loads calling for standard primers can create higher pressures than the load was originally designed for.

Naturally, never smoke around primers or during the priming process.

As a new reloader, you should follow exactly the instructions provided to you by your reloading manual or reloading die manufacturer. As you gain experience, you will learn which manufacturer's comments are safety-relevant and those that are either "lawyer speak", or scare mongering for marketing purposes. Until you have enough experience to know what each reloading component brings to the "safety table", it is unwise to "experiment", especially with things like primers.

If you take your time and pay attention, reloading is a very safe and fun activity for the whole family!

[davidlt89]

and you should not be afraid of it. If you are, you probably shouldn't do it.

As a person who wants to reload, I am kinda nervous about it, I have never done it and know mistakes can be made and I assume some can be  serious. I take the above sentence as telling me stay away from it. My suggestion would be to rephrase that to something like "if you take your time and pay attention, reloading is an extremely safe activity". something like that reassures me (the beginning reloader) that reloading can be safe when safety precautions are followed. I hope that makes sense? God bless.

[Alboy]

I see what you are saying. I would just end the sentence at
... unwise to "experiment", especially with things like primers.
and let it go at that.

[recoil junky]

OK, reread the last part again and see what you think.

RJ

[Alboy]

Makes sense. If someone does not listen to warnings about stay with the written proven load until you are experienced they won't listen to next three warnings anyway.

[davidlt89]

Excellent! God Bless.

[gitano]

I'd say "post it".
 
Paul