Reloading Safety Part 3

[recoil junky]

What I'd like to have everyone do is send me (via email) pictures of cases that have failed. Everything from 25 ACP's to 50 BMG's with a small statement as to why in your opinion the case failed. This will be added to the "caption" of the picture. I've got to get me a jewler's saw to cut apart some old balloon head cases so folks can see the difference unless someone already has pictures.


Reloading Safety Part 3:

Cartridge Cases

Case Inspection:

Prior to reloading cases should be inspected for splits, cracks, head separations and primer pocket deformities. Cases with primer pocket deformities should not be reloaded. They should be crimped/smashed with a pair of pliers and thrown away. Loose or deformed primer pockets can lead to the hot gases of powder combustion leaking around the primer and damaging the bolt face. These gases can also cause eye injury in some extreme instances. Small dents in the case and neck will be removed during the resizing process. Badly dented cases should not be used.

Decapping:

Decapping is done as part of the resizing process (neck or full length) or it can be done with a separate die made just for decapping. Many reloaders do it as a separate step prior to tumbling so the primer pocket is cleaned as well as the rest of the case.

Tumbling:

This is not a necessary step, but it does help remove powder residue from the inside of the case and primer pocket (if the primer is removed prior to tumbling) and polishes the outside of the case. This also removes dirt and grit that can harm your dies eventually and makes case inspection easier. If the cases are decapped before tumbling, the flash holes must be checked for tumbling media and the media removed before priming.


Primer pocket care:

If you don't have a tumbler, it is a good idea to remove the powder/primer residue from the primer pocket. This can be done with a small screw driver or a primer pocket cleaner. Cleaners are offered by all major reloading tool manufacturers.

If you are using military brass, the primer pocket must be reamed or swaged and the primer crimp removed before a new primer can be installed.

[recoil junky]

If any "olde timers" have some old balloon head cases, could you cut one open and send me a picture? I can't seem to locate any in my "collection". I had some old 44 special brass that was balloon head, but at this time I can't find it.

RJ

[recoil junky]

Reloading Safety Part 3:

Cartridge Cases

Case Inspection:

Prior to reloading cases should be inspected for splits, cracks, head separations and primer pocket deformities. Cases with primer pocket deformities should not be reloaded. They should be crimped/smashed with a pair of pliers and thrown away. Loose or deformed primer pockets can lead to the hot gases of powder combustion leaking around the primer and damaging the bolt face. These gases can also cause eye injury in some extreme instances. Small dents in the case and neck will be removed during the resizing process. Badly dented cases should not be used.

Many years ago balloon head cases were the norm. Balloon head cases will not withstand the pressures common to reloads made for modern firearms and should NOT BE USED except for very light loads by experienced reloaders.

A typical balloon head case: Note the folds between the primer pocket and the wall of the case.

(This one  (45-70 or what's left) was found on the Fort Keogh Rifle Range, Montana Territory)

A split neck on a 300RUM: Caused by an unknown amount of reloadings without annealing. Still usable by some, thrown away by most:greentongue:


An extreme case head separation caused by using someone else's reloads of unknown bullet weight, powder charge or primer. Notice the dents in the case below the neck. This ruined an elk hunt. Case is a 300Win mag.


Decapping:

Decapping is done as part of the resizing process (neck or full length) or it can be done with a separate die made just for decapping. Many reloaders do it as a separate step prior to tumbling so the primer pocket is cleaned as well as the rest of the case.

Tumbling:

This is not a necessary step, but it does help remove powder residue from the inside of the case and primer pocket (if the primer is removed prior to tumbling) and polishes the outside of the case. This also removes dirt and grit that can harm your dies eventually and makes case inspection easier. If the cases are decapped before tumbling, the flash holes must be checked for tumbling media and the media removed before priming.


Primer pocket care:

If you don't have a tumbler, it is a good idea to remove the powder/primer residue from the primer pocket. This can be done with a small screw driver or a primer pocket cleaner. Cleaners are offered by all major reloading tool manufacturers.

If you are using military brass, the primer pocket must be reamed or swaged to remove the primer crimp before a new primer can be installed.

You'll notice the crimp ring around the primer on this Lake City .223 brass(r) as compared to some civilian Winchester brass(l).


And comparing civilian 30-06 brass to military 30-06 of unknown origin



Ok, I got a start here, but it's a long way from being perfect or complete. Go ahead and insert additions, corrections, deletions in this one and I'll add, delete, correct in the original as we go. I think it will work better. Maybe. We'll give it a go.

RJ