Bullet hardness in relation to usage

[LvrLover]

While most center fire bullet casting applications are best served with a alloy of lead and antimony or some other "harder" alloy. I have found that when it comes to muzzle loading firearms pure lead seems to work better for me. In a BP revolver the balls fit the chamber and actually a bit is shaved off as they are seated. If the bullet is too hard it makes the process much less enjoyable. In the case of maxi balls in a rifle, it can be difficult, if not impossible, to force the full caliber projectile down the barrel if it is too hard.  I found this out the hard way and had to use a hammer to seat the bullet - not the safest thing to do. Finally I have heard from some who use a minnie ball that the "skirt" expands much better with pure lead to make a tight seal. I will say that is not an area I have experience in as I do not use them.
 
Do any of the rest of you use a specific alloy "recipe" for other applications?

[recoil junky]

Like you, I've also found out the "hard way" that only pure lead should be used for front stuffers. I had a Ruger Old Army that I tried to force a round ball into that evidently wasn't pure lead. Luckily it was the first chamber of a reload and I was able to remove the cylinder, take out the nipple and drill out the bullet. On the less fortunate side I had cast a couple hundred  of these and dumped them in with the rest. :undecided:

I've also found that a bullet casting alloy for center fires can be to hard. Alloy with too much antimony can make the bullet brittle to the point where it won't obturate and the alloy is shaved off by the riflings instead. Talk about hard to remove leading

My "normal" recipe used to be Lyman's #2 alloy, but now I use pretty much all wheel weights for my bullet casting. Bullets cast from the wheel weights I've been getting have a Brinnel hardness of 14-16, 18 if I quench them as I'm casting. I try to keep my cast bullets under 1400 fps to help prevent leading.

Another thing I've noticed is that if I leave bullets for a couple weeks or so before I size and lube them  is that they seem "harder" than if I were to size and lube them the same day or the next day. I don't know if the bullets are hardening over time or it's just my imagination. Seems like I heard or read someplace that some alloys do get "harder" over time.

RJ

[Alboy]

Soft lead is preferred by me on all rifled weapons.
 
however on smoothbores (shotguns, pirate pistols or muskets) alloy is fine as the tightness is only influenced by the patch thickness.

[Nelsdou]

I'm using Lyman #2 from now on to "normalize" my rifle loads. #2 has a pretty good match of ductility and toughness for a hunting bullet. By finding the accuracy loads using #2 I'll eventually build "go to" loads for each rifle/caliber and be ready for any hunting opportunity.

If I opt for speed or want to reach out longer than 200 yds I'll heat treat WWs 450F for an hour (not in the house!), water quench, and pack in the freezer for a week. The Bride really likes that.

When I get enough cast up I'll capture the delta between the #2 air cooled and the WW heat treated in 8x57, 9.3x57, 308 Win and maybe 6.5x55.

Nels

[drinksgin (deceased)]

First thing, get a hardness tester, Lee's is the most accurate and cheapest but the hardest to use next thing be sure the projectile is the proper diameter for the barrel, use a good lube, keep the pressure within the limits in the tables in Lee's Reloading Manual, second edition.
If you are serious, join the Cast Bullet Shooter's Assn.,then get on the forum, "Cast Boolits"

[gitano]

When I get enough cast up I'll capture the delta between the #2 air cooled and the WW heat treated in 8x57, 9.3x57, 308 Win and maybe 6.5x55

I wait with bated breath...
 
Don "turned me on to" a recipe that has worked so far for me: Wheel weights and "chilled" shot. I use about 10% by weight of chilled shot. In other words, if I am planning on melting up 10 pounds of alloy for bullet casting, I load 9 pounds of wheel weight alloy with 1 pound of chilled shot. Chilled shot is cheaper than antimony, and I don't have to measure the antimony for small batches. The antimony in the chilled shot provides all I need, and since I use #9 shot, it's easy to get fairly precise measurements.
 
Bullets cast from this alloy of chilled shot and wheel weights end up about 18 Brinnel for air-cooled and 20-24 for quenched. Even though I have an excellent oven, I have yet to temper any bullets I have cast. Mostly because I haven't made any bullets since I bought the oven.
 
Personally, I think the lube has A LOT to do with leading. I'd guess that the alloy hardness relative to the velocity used is the most important factor, but I think the right lube is a very close second. Also, I have come to believe that fire-lapping the bore makes a world of difference in the amount of leading in a barrel shooting cast boolits.
 
Paul

[drinksgin (deceased)]

Paul, the lube is important, but the final hone of fire lapping is not only important for shooting cast but greatly reduces copper fouling and makes cleanup of either easier and faster.
When I get a rifle, the first thing is to clean and inspect the bore, if it does not appear slick, then it is due for a few grit coated cast bullets, even and especially new guns.
Some of the most ugly barrels I have seen were in new products.
I must say the slickest barrel I have seen was the K31 I bought, really polished.