Topics

deleted

Hi guys,

Just one question if you get crinkles at the base of the neck is that brass cactus and should it not be shot?

I have two cases out of the ones I have resized that have a slight crinkle at the base of the neck.

Cheers

Hi Guys,

I just bought some AR2209 powder, 100 .277 130 grain Rem Core Lock projectiles and some Win large rifle primers for loading. I have 150 empty cases which I intend to use.

It's my first time reloading for the 270, but the question I have is, do you guys know what powders remington use on their loads. My rifle is sighted in for the Rem 270 130 grain core lock ammo and I would like to achieve a close enough P.O.I. to the factory ammo. How do I do that? Do I need to go through 40 rounds to work this out  or can I give myself a better start.

My cases and primers are not remington, they are Winchester so I guess I'm already on the back foot (it's a cricket term). Also I wouldn't have a clue what powders they use and how much they use.  Do any of you guys tried to match factory ammo. I know handloads in my 303 are more accurate but I do like how the Rem ammo performs and if I can improve the accuracy even better. The only downside is I don't have a chrony or access to one.

Your thoughts & tips.

Cheers

Went for a red deer hunt two weekends ago but we saw just old tracks and scrapings. We'd been chasing this big buck that has been frequenting the area we hunt but he has been very illusive, thus the reason why he is a big buck. He looks like a 10 or 11 pointer as we have seen him from a fair distance and by the height of the scrapes.
 
i just finished sighting in the Tikka 270win the weekend before and was itching to try it out. I've fitted a Bushnell Banner 3-9x40 on it, which has kept zero nicely. Anyhow from all the excitement and anticipation of the coming hunt I completely forgot to clean my rifle (after the range workout) before we went out and I only remembered when I was putting on my camo at the crack of dawn.
 
Anyhow after 4 to 5 hours of climbing hills and scouting the surroundings we were on our way back and we noticed a few wallabies sitting on the side of a hills basking in the sun. Never to pass up meat for the dogs, I opened my home made shooting sticks clipped the sling loose (got one of those tactical type slings where the rifle sits by your side without requiring you to hold on to it) and placed the crosshairs on his chest. He was about 110 meters away. As I fired I saw some bark come off a tree and thought, no the projectile might deviate but I did see the sucker drop. On inspection the shot went throught the middle of the chest and exited from the near the back of the shoulder, as I was shooting up the hill. A bit too much gun for a wallaby but we were after Reds.
 
I was pleased the Tikka was on target even after not been cleaned. I won't be doing that again.
 
Anyhow we had a beginner fellow with us that was keen to take a photo so I posed for the camera. We shoot so many of the macropods that you don't really pose for photos but it was good to set the scene for our newcomer. Will post that photo tonight.
 
By the way when we were field dressing the wallaby he was a fine specimen, the meat was good quality so I got the missus to do our favourite recipe slow cooker meal with cranberries that we reserve for venison but used the wallaby meat. I loved it but my wife couldn't get the picture of a wallaby out of her head. Oh well I guess the dogs will get the spoils next time.
 
Cheers

Hey Compadres,

I've got a bench rest bipod (6 to 9 inch) that I want to fit my Mauser in 303-25 .

It has a varmint styled fore-end which is wide and flat. I will be screwing in a QD stud into the wood and I've heard that once you sight a rifle in and then fit a bipod the point of impact changes. Is there a preferred distance to place the QD stud so I can seat the bipod so it doesn't affect the barrels harmonics too much. Is there a preferred distance in inches from the tip of the fore-end?

I know some of the tactical rifles have two QD studs and one is for the sling and the other for the bipod, so is the rear one where the bipod is attached?

 I don't want to put a hole in the stock and then realise it is not a good spot. I know a lot of people hate bipods but I want to use it at the range off the bench & also for calling in foxes on the field. It's a heavy rifle to carry around as it has a heavy barrel & stock.

Your thoughts fellows.

Cheers

Jorge

This user admin86skf  is posting nonsense in the forum. Just letting you know.

Guys I have another question for a possible project I’m contemplating.
 
I’m thinking of converting my Mauser K98 in 303/25 to 257 Weatherby Magnum. I’ve looked at the sizes of the rims, length of cases and other case measurements and think it could be a possibility. As my bolt face handles the 0.540 inch rimmed case of the 303 it may be able to be worked to handle the 257 Weatherby Magnum rim size of 0.534 inch. Also the case length is 2.560 inches long which would fit in a standard size Mauser action.
 
The major concern would be the reaming of the chamber. Would that be possible considering the rimmed case of the 303 is 0.006 inch larger than the 257 Weatherby Mag or the fact that the 257 Weatherby Mag headspaces on the shoulder it may not be an issue.
 
I would replace my 303/25 with a No1 MkIII model which I can pick up for about $100 and still mess around with a wildcat.
 
I realise there will need to be work to the magazine and maybe other mods will be required but I would like some learned feedback from you wise owls who have dabbled in mods and conversions.
 
My thinking is I have a strong action in great condition with a medium to heavy 25inch barrel (i know it’s not 26 inch) in excellent condition which I believe would become my main hunting rig as I could take anything from roos to large red deer stag with the one calibre. I know the 270 I have can already do that but the 257 would be a more interesting calibre to own, especially being one of the flatest shooting calibre around.
 
Am I nuts or is it a possibility. What problems would I encounter.Please let me know.
 
Cheers
Jorge

Hi there,

I'm contemplating reaming my portuguese mauser sporter in 8x57 ( I have two of these, the other is in mil configuration) to  either 8x64 Brenneke or 8mm-06. Is there any advantage to these two calibres than just leaving it as an 8mm Mauser. I remember reading a thread that had this discussion.

Will the PSIs or CUP be an issue with my action for these two calibres?

I'm getting Lynx Mannlicher Schonauer  scope mounts  for the open bridge. which are designed to fit the portuguese mauser also.

Cheers

Hey Paul (Gitano),
 
I asked this before when you were away from the forum, but I'm considering getting a 458 win mag or 45-70 rifle.

The fellow at Noosa Shooters who is a cowboy action aficionado has a H & R Buffalo in 45-70 model ($695). But he also showed me a Handi rifle in 45-70 ($475) of which he owns one and loves shooting it. It''s a 22 inch barrel I believe.

Now how much difference will the 31 inch barrel of the buffalo be compared to the 22 inch barrel of the Handi rifle both from a trajectory and velocity points of view. Can I make a 200+ yards shot with a 45-70 handi with the shorter barrel. Also will it recoil more with the shorter barrel ( I would assume it may).
 
My other option is to get a Stevens 200 in 7mm Rem Mag ($450-$550) and buy a 458 win mag barrel kit at Brownells for $189 plus postage. I've done some rough sums and that still takes me to around $1,000. Still cheaper than a Ruger No1 or a CZ550 in the same caliber. But for that amount of dough I may as well save some more and get the No1.
 
My immediate affordable option is the 45-70.
 
Your thoughts

Cheers
 
Jorge

Hey guys,
 
I'm looking at buying this mount which I believe may be a 1900 mauser scope mount.
 
Has anyone seen one of these before. It sits on the receiver.
 
Could you let me know if you know what rifle it belongs to.
 
Cheers

Hi guys,

My wife and I never thought we'd see the day but yes she has bought me a rifle for my 40th birthday. My birthday is not until the 23rd April and the party is on the Saturday, so I cleaned , oiled it and put it away. Can't touch it till  my birthday which is next week. I'm not complaining as it's a minor miracle my missus buying me a rifle.

It's a K98 Mauser in 303-25.  She's seem better days but I'm hanging out to take it apart and restore it. Needs a reblue, new recoil pad, new stock? (sometime down the track, if ever), but for the time being I will restore the stock it has as it has been floated and glass beaded. I would like to test out how accurate it shoots before I go stuffing up the stock to metal fit.

The most exciting part about it all was the barrel which looked a bit rough at the shop and I was happy for the money I was paying for it, you'd only get the action.  But I got home and cleaned it and I was stoked, it is in excellent condition and it's a medium to heavy varmint style barrel. I've loaded some ammo with 87 grain pills  & I can't wait to get to the range. The scope looks old and battered but has beautiful clarity. It's an old Japanese one can't remember the name starts with an S. We'll see if it's any good. But a good Bushnell Banner will suffice.

It has a collar which is screwed in to the action and then the barrel is fitted in the collar. I've seen some Sportco/Omark 44s with this set up. I believe it made barrel replacements cheaper, not sure.

It has the german eagle stamps on it too. I can't wait to take the scope base off to see what make it is. I believe it could be late war from the oval holes  in the bolt but the bolt numbers do not match the action, so it may not be a good indicator. I hope they haven't scrub the manufacturer's code.

One questions guys, the stock has some deep gouges in it, can I use sawdust and resin or  something else to fill in the gouges. Need some help with that one.

Here are some pictures

Hey guys,
have a few questions for all you reloaders out there. I bought a whole bunch of dies of various brands on eBay, expecting to get at least one complete pair, I predominantly bought the bunch as it had 270 win & 303 Brit dies advertised of which I only got seating dies for both, but that's ok as I have read in the forum the various size dies can be used instead of forming dies. It pays to read the fine print & review photos properly.

Also can you buy spare decapping needles? And what is an expander die and how is it different to a FLS die?

Here is the list just wondering if any of them are stranger exotic calibres, I know most of the sizes are common ones:

· 270 win seating die complete;
· 303 Brit seating die complete;
· 308 Neck die & FLS die with one decapper needle for both, can I share it for the same brand dies?
· 22 hornet neck die minus needle;
· 22 hornet sizing die incomplete;
· 10mm auto expander or neck die, I think it's complete;
· 6.5x55 seating die complete?;
· 6.5 Roberts seating die;
· 7x61 Neck die;
· 32 S&W seating die, incomplete;
· 38-40 sizing die, incomplete;
· 30 carbine neck die expander not if complete;
· 32-20 expander decapper, needle tip missing;
· 32-20 sizing die incomplete;
· Decapping screw in needle tip;
· nut & centering bolt

As a lot are not complete I feel like I just bought junk , but I'll hang on to them and pick up single dies here and there to complete the set. I may have to buy 270 Win & 8mm Mauser dies though as I need them now. Anyhow this is a start to my collection of dies. I also have a 303Brit Lee handloader which I have used with great success (using my own cases) and a set of 303-25 dies.

Cheers

Living in Oz I'm partial to the 303 British actually I love this caliber and love loading it.

Now the SMLEs are not potentially as accurate as modern rifles but there are no other modern rifles in this caliber being such an old round. I know the Winchester 95 was made in 303 British but I'd have to sell my house to buy one of those.

I have a No1 MkIII & a No4 MkI but I would love a single shot in this caliber. Now cheapest Martini Henry I've seen was $600 and when I had enough for a deposit it was sold. But I did see a BAIKAL IZH-18MH in 7.62x39  that caught my eye. It has a .311 in bore and I was wondering whether it could be reamed to take the 303 cartridge.

I've attached a diagram of the chamber for assistance. The other thing would be a rimmed extractor for it. I know they chamber this rifle in 7.62x54R in Europe.

Is it possible to do.

Cheers

Hi Guys,

You know when you've done something really dumb and it weighs on you like a ton of bricks and you wonder how the heck you even contemplated doing something that dumb. Well that's me right now.

I loaded some 303 British ammo a while back with 123 grain projectiles. Anyhow I happen to seat a projectile in a case that did not have any powder, now that's the first time I have ever done that. Anyhow I left that round with the projectile facing upwards as to remind me that it did not have powder.

I happen to pull that box of ammo out this afternoon and remembered that particular round. Now I don't have a bullet puller or anything to take that projectile out. Tried the plyers but to no avail. Anyhow the bright spark that I am this afternoon I decided to cycle the round into an old dingy sporterised 303 with open sights and I thought if I let the round off the primer will be ignited and I can safely remove the projectile. What a space cadet, off course the primer going off pushed the projectile out of the case and it is now lodged at the end of the chamber/start of the barrel rifling.

I haven't got a clue what to do now, short of taking it to the gunsmith which I'm sure will cost me more than what the $50 rifle is worth.

Please help!!!!

Cheers

Dumbo.

Hi Guys,
 
I'm about to put a deposit on a Winchester 710 Cooey in 243 Win. Just wondering whether any of you guys have had any experiences with one. I believe it is CRF but I'm not 100%.
 
Any thoughts on this Canadian assembled rifle and the various model 70 rifles made by Olin & USRAC. I'm clearing out my cabinet to fund the start of a collection of winchester model 70 rifles in the various calibers.
 
Cheers
 
Jorge

Hi guys,

Just like to announce the arrival of my baby boy Jesse Luis. He was born on the 3rd November at 11:41pm. He weighed 6 pound 8 oz and was 49.5cm long. He is  a wonderful little boy and lucky for him he looks like his mum.

Mother and bub are doing well.

Cheers

Jorge

Hi Guys,

My portuguese mauser was not ejecting the cases so I took the bolt stop apart cleaned the gunk off, degreased it  and oiled it .Once I replaced it it was still not ejecting the cases but I cycled a few rounds through it and it started ejecting them and has continued to do so.

Now my question is when the bolt is removed does the ejector suppose to sit  back in the bolt stop compartment or does it stick out . I noticed there is a mark (a straight line) on the bolt where the ejector  is touching as the bolt moves up and down. I'm use to working on SMLEs so this is why I'm asking.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Regards

Jorge

Hi Guys,
 
I've just purchased an old dog of a rifle, Mauser Vergueiro 1904/39. The dude I bought it from said the bore was dark but the rifling was sharp. Refer below.
 
I wasn't too fussed as I have a spare 7x57 barrel that I will probably change over. He also thought it was 6.5mm but by the look of it I guessed that it was converted to 8mm. I'm waiting for my permit before I can pick it up. I will give the barrel a good clean and if the bore is good I will redo the wood and reblue all the metal and keep it in its original configuration. If the barrel is shot then i will sporterise it and replace the barrel with my 7mm. It cost me what you pay for the hinged magazine with the release in the trigger guard so I can't complain.
 
My question to you guys is, it has an open bridge like a mannlicher and the bolt is also different, but everything else is like a Mauser 98. I want to scope it but it will have to be a side mount or scout mount on the rear sight. Just wondering whether any of you guys have had any experience with either scope mounts and what are the pros and cons.
 
I had a scout mount on my 303 but I seemed to knock it and lose zero quite easily, it was a B-Square mount. Any advice will be helpful.

Also will a M98 stock fit the action if i want to sporterise it.
 
Cheers

Hi Guys,

I need to remove black paint from a spare barrel I have. The Colombians along with the Indians from India (not the Inyens from Nth America) tend to paint the barrels with a pot belly stove like paint. Tried some "turps" and "metho" but didn't even smudge. I would like to cold blue the barrel once I can remove the stubborn paint. Short of sand blasting the whole barrel, I would like a gentler option that I can do at home. Does any one have any ideas or have encountered the same problem.

Cheers

Jorge:Banghead:

Hi Guys,
 
I'm venturing into the land of wildcats, mainly 303 British Aussie wildcats. My wife is expecting and the baby is due in late November, so my expensive Mauser project will now take a backseat. SMLE's and other Enfields in wildcats are plenty and cheap, as there is no commercial ammo available, except for the 303-25 that you can pick up at my local gunshop from time to time.
 
I've just purchased some 303-25 dies (or 25-303 as you guys in the US say it) and some 303-25 cases I spotted on eBay. I will also be buying dies for a 303-22 Falcon (full size 303 case). The 303-22 reloading dies cost $130 and the forming die cost about $143. they are dearer than what I can buy the rifles for.
 
Now my first question is what case lube is good to use in forming my cases. Are there alternatives to the factory lubes on offer if not what brand lubes work best.
 
Also I want to skip buying the forming dies and just resize 303-25 cases down to 302-22 using the full length sizing (fls) die. Does this sound reasonable or stupid? My friend passes the 303 Brit cases through his 303-25 fls die for makes his cases, is there an issue with this approach if I do it in two steps for the 303 Brit to 302-25 to 303-22.
 
The 303-22 Falcon case is only slightly smaller than the 22-250 case in volume so you get good velocity.
 
Your thoughts please gentlemen.
 
Cheers